기와집 본점
Hanok courtyard by the reservoir and nurungji baeksuk from the pressure cooker
A hanok restorative-food house in Oryun-dong at 245, Oryundae-ro, near the Hoedong Reservoir. Tiled roof, timber exterior, and a garden out front; the whole ground floor is private rooms, which is why families book it for birthdays and gatherings. On good days they slide the doors open so you eat looking at the yard.
Baeksuk goes into a pressure cooker to order, so it takes 40 to 50 minutes. Call at least an hour ahead. The native chicken and nurungji baeksuk at KRW 65,000 feeds about three, simmered with chestnut, jujube, garlic, and medicinal herbs until the broth turns savoury and clinging. The meat falls off the bone yet never dries out, staying clean-tasting the longer you chew. The scorched rice comes on a separate plate, best where it has caught and crisped. On the duck side, the herbal baeksuk at KRW 55,000 is built on hwangchil and medicinal herbs.
Plenty of tables come for grilled duck instead. The marinated bulgogi at KRW 43,000 goes on the griddle with onion and spring onion, finished with garlic chives; the seasoning stays mild enough to eat with rice. Fry rice in what is left of the marinade to close. Banchan is deliberately short — kkakdugi, young radish kimchi, spring onion kimchi, pickles — and the pickles cut the richness of the baeksuk while the spring onion kimchi pairs with the rice porridge.
Open daily 11:00 to 21:00, closed only on the main holidays. Dogs may be allowed in a room if you call ahead, so check before setting out. The Hoedong Reservoir walking path is close by for a stroll afterwards. Park in front of the restaurant, or use the private lot across the road when it is full.