감나무집
Floor-seating duck bulgogi by Beomeosa, with a timer telling you when to add the chives
A duck specialist at 334, Beomeosa-ro, right at the approach to Beomeosa Temple in Geumjeong-gu. It suits a stop on the way down from the Bukmun or Godangbong routes on Geumjeongsan, though public transport is awkward and driving is easier. Seating is floor-style rooms; give your headcount and they assign one. After you order, two staff carry in the whole banchan-laden table at once, which is a sight on the first visit.
There are only two dishes: marinated duck bulgogi and salt-grilled duck, both KRW 23,000 per person, one pan serving two. They light the burner and leave a timer, which means seven minutes for the bulgogi and nine for the salt-grilled before you add the garlic chives. Enough people added them early that the timer became standard. The chives arrive by the basinful and need only a moment on the heat; overcook them and they turn stringy. There is no gaminess, and the marinade is spicy without being salty, so it wraps well in lettuce.
Finish with the fried rice at KRW 2,000, which you cook yourself. It picks up the duck fat caught on the pan, and perilla leaf makes a clear difference. The country doenjang stew at KRW 5,000 uses house-fermented soybean paste with kelp and carries a deep rustic savour. Bibimbap runs KRW 12,000 as a meal on its own or KRW 8,000 after the duck. Toward the end of the meal they bring sungnyung, the scorched-rice tea.
The banchan leans on pickles and seasoned greens, mild rather than assertive, and every ingredient is listed as Korean in origin. Open 12:00 to 21:00 with a break from 16:00 to 17:00, closed Tuesday and Wednesday. Walk-ins are fine but reservations fill up, so calling ahead is safer. Park in front of the restaurant.